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From Mulu we flew directly to Kota Kinabalu, where we said goodbye to Vera. At a fish restaurant we celebrated our last night together, feasting on grilled “greasy grouper”, stir-fried water spinach and squid cooked in a sweet, sticky black-pepper sauce.

Dosa Giant lobster Malaysian food buffer

Sabah is much different from Sarawak . There is a stronger Muslim, Malay influence, with many immigrants from the Philippines and Indonesia . The relaxed friendliness of Sarawak was replaced by a more hustled, businesslike atmosphere.